New River Gorge Without Hiking: Easy Views & Drives

by | National Parks

New River Gorge Bridge spanning a forested canyon for travelers exploring New River Gorge without hiking.

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Can you really experience New River Gorge National Park without spending your entire trip hiking?

Absolutely. If you’re road-tripping through New River Gorge or exploring from an RV basecamp, you don’t have to hike for miles to see some of its best parts. We found incredible overlooks, waterfalls, scenic drives, and historic towns—and our favorite experience of the entire trip didn’t involve a big hike at all.

West Virginia isn’t new territory for us. Robb and I had been traveling here for work since the early 2000s, pulling into county fairs, setting up, working, packing up, and moving on. Over the years, we have worked close to 20 fairs across the state.

Somewhere along the way, West Virginia simply became “The WV” to us.

We’ve driven across the New River Gorge Bridge, traveled along the New River, and even knew the places where the river seems to run backwards. What we hadn’t done was give ourselves enough time to stop and explore.

Nearly 20 years had passed since I’d last driven across the New River Gorge Bridge. This time, instead of having somewhere else we needed to be, we finally had time to play.

This time, instead of driving through, we set up the RV for four nights and explored. Even though this was a work trip. Although some of our sightseeing days didn’t start until well after lunch, we packed a surprising amount into our time.

We aren’t opposed to hiking. Give us a mile or two with a great view, and we’re happy to hit the trail. But on this trip, we focused on short walks, scenic overlooks, and experiences that didn’t require spending half the day hiking.

That led us to bridge views, roadside waterfalls, an incredible drive into the gorge, and an unexpected boat ride that became our favorite experience of the trip.

As it turns out, we found plenty of big views, scenic drives and memorable experiences at New River Gorge without ever needing a big hike.

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New River Gorge Without Big Hikes: Quick Guide

StopWalking / EffortTime & Our Take
Cathedral FallsNo hike required; rough terrain if you go closer~20 min · Easy waterfall payoff
Hawks Nest Overlook~½ mile, paved and easy30–45 min · Big view, little effort
Canyon RimShort boardwalk; 178 steps optional30–60 min · Classic bridge view
Sandstone Falls~¼-mile accessible boardwalk45–60 min · Favorite waterfall
GrandviewShort walk; uneven stone path30–60 min · Huge payoff
Dunloup Creek FallsView from above; steep and slick if you go closer15–30 min · Stop if you're passing
ThurmondEasy walking around the historic area45–90 min · Biggest surprise
Fayette Station RoadScenic drive; short stops along the way1–2 hrs · Favorite scenic drive
NuttallburgUneven terrain with walking around the historic site1–2 hrs · Eerie and fascinating
Babcock State ParkShort walks to the main photo stops45–90 min · Iconic West Virginia photos

Good to know: There is no entrance fee to visit New River Gorge National Park and Preserve, and you don't need a National Park pass to enter.

Our Quick Take on New River Gorge

If you’re planning your first trip to New River Gorge, there are a few things I’d put at the top of the list.

  • Don’t miss: Canyon Rim for the classic New River Gorge Bridge view and Fayette Station Road to drive down into the gorge and see the bridge from below.
  • Our favorite experience: The Hawks Nest boat tour. We booked it almost on a whim, and it ended up being the highlight of our entire trip.
  • Worth the extra drive: Sandstone Falls, especially if you have two or more days. I wouldn’t prioritize it on a one-day visit simply because of the time it takes to get there.
  • If you’re short on time: Save Nuttallburg and Babcock State Park for a longer trip. We loved both, but I’d hit the classic New River Gorge sights first.
  • For RVers: Use your campground as a basecamp and explore in your tow vehicle or toad. We definitely wouldn’t take an RV or trailer down Fayette Station Road.

We had four nights in the area, although work meant we didn’t have four full sightseeing days. If I were planning the trip again purely for vacation, I’d want at least three full days.

Where We Stayed
at New River Gorge

With several days to explore New River Gorge, having a good home base made it much easier to get out and explore each day. We stayed in our RV, but you definitely don’t need one to stay here.

River Expeditions sits on more than 100 acres with everything from RV and tent camping to safari tents, bungalows, and several types of cabins, so there are plenty of options depending on how you like to travel.

Currently, six RV sites near the top of the property offer water and electric hookups, along with a dump station.
Final-morning-new-river-gorge-bridge

River Expeditions: Our Basecamp

River Expeditions is just outside Fayetteville and only a few minutes from the Canyon Rim area, which made it convenient to leave the RV set up and explore the gorge in our tow vehicle.

The property itself is much bigger than I expected. This isn’t just a small campground with a few cabins scattered around. The basecamp covers more than 100 acres with several different types of lodging, along with a pool, hot tub and outdoor adventures right on the property.

Six RV sites near the top of the property currently offer water and electric hookups, along with a dump station. The property also offers cabins and other accommodations, plus a pool and hot tub.

River Expeditions is also an adventure outfitter, so if rafting is on your New River Gorge list, you can arrange that right from the property. They also offer other outdoor adventures, making this an especially convenient basecamp if you want to mix sightseeing with something a little more adventurous.

For us, the location worked incredibly well. We could head out for a few hours of exploring and still be back at the RV before dark for steak, wine or a little tequila. That’s our kind of National Park vacation.

A quick note: We were at River Expeditions on a freelance filming assignment for Campground Views, and they provided our RV site complimentary during our stay. We were not paid to review the campground or to write this article, and all opinions and recommendations here are our own.

We pulled into camp around 7:30 Friday night, set up the RV, and grabbed dinner at Elliott’s Whitewater Bar nearby. It was tucked into the lower level of a Quality Inn, which wasn’t quite what we expected, yet the food was good and it made for a welcoming first night in “The WV.”

The real exploring would start the next afternoon.

Cathedral Falls: An Easy First WOW

Our first real sightseeing day didn’t begin until around 1:30 Saturday afternoon, and Cathedral Falls was our first stop. This is one of those places where you can pull off the road and get a great view without spending much time there.

The dirt-and-gravel parking area is right along the road, and you can see Cathedral Falls without venturing any closer. The falls drop about 60 feet over layers of shale and sandstone, and they’re outstanding. For a waterfall that is basically a roadside attraction, I wasn’t expecting it to be quite this large.

There is an elevated dirt path above the creek bed, or you can make your way up the rocky creek bed toward the falls for a closer look. We could see adults and kids right up near the waterfall and playing in the natural pool below it.

I watched a few people slip on the rocks and decided my view from a distance was just fine. Robb, of course, ventured farther while I stayed back and enjoyed the falls without testing my balance on wet rocks.

Unless you plan to swim or explore around the creek, you really don’t need much more than 20 minutes here. Cars seemed to move in and out of the small parking area fairly quickly, making Cathedral Falls a quick stop to work into a day of exploring.

Cathedral falls cascading over layered rock ledges with visitors gathered at the base among dense green trees.

From Cathedral Falls, we continued toward Hawks Nest State Park.

Hawks Nest State Park: Big Views Without a Big Hike

Hawks Nest State Park was on our list for the views, and we really didn’t know much about it beyond that. What started as a stop to check out a couple of overlooks became one of our trip’s favorite experiences.

Hawks Nest Overlook Trail: Big Views, Short Walk

When we arrived at Hawks Nest State Park, we started with the overlook loop. It’s about a half-mile walk from the parking area, and the path is flat and paved. Much of it winds beneath the trees, so even on a sunny day we found it shaded and comfortably cool.

Two overlooks line the loop, and both offer incredible views across the gorge. Everything was bright green during our visit; the sky was a perfect blue, and from high above we could look down toward the New River, Hawks Nest Dam and Tunnel area, with layers of West Virginia mountains stretching out around us.

 

Hawks nest overlook with a sweeping view of the new river winding between forested mountains.

This has to be spectacular in the fall. I can only imagine those mountains covered in red, orange, and gold when the leaves start to change.

This is exactly the kind of walk we love, short, easy, and worth every step. You don’t need hiking boots, a backpack, or half a day to enjoy this one. Give yourself enough time to walk the loop, stop at both overlooks, and simply enjoy the view for a while.

Paved hawks nest overlook trail winding gently uphill through a shady green forest.

We found the same kind of experience at Big Bend National Park, where some of our favorite views came from scenic drives, overlooks, and shorter walks rather than big hikes.

If you want some of the best scenery at Hawks Nest without a long hike, don’t skip this walk.

Our Favorite Experience: Hawks Nest Boat Tour

We tried to look into the boat tour online before our visit, but the reservation system wasn’t working for some reason. Since we were already at Hawks Nest, we stopped at the boat tour desk to ask about it.

And just like that, we were going on a boat ride we hadn’t planned.

The adventure started with a shuttle ride down through the forest toward the river. The narrow road wound its way down the mountain, and the ride itself was scenic enough to feel like part of the experience.

Halfway down,  we passed a public rail trail area that felt completely tucked away from everything above. A rocky creek bed runs alongside the trail and leads toward a waterfall, and it immediately caught our attention. Unfortunately, we were on the shuttle and headed for the boat, so exploring it would have to wait for another trip.

This is one of those little places we probably never would have known was there if we hadn’t taken the shuttle down the mountain. If we had more time, we would have explored this area a little more.

When we reached the boat dock, we met Captain Ron. He helped us with our life jackets, got us aboard, and immediately made us feel comfortable and welcome. As it turned out, Robb and I were his only two passengers.

Three people in life jackets smile aboard the hawks nest boat tour beneath a railroad bridge.

Our original tour was supposed to be on a jet boat, but it wasn’t running that day, so we headed out on a small outboard instead for half the regular price. I can’t compare the two experiences, although I can tell you we didn’t feel like we were missing a thing.

Captain Ron first took us toward the power station and explained what we were seeing. From there, we headed upriver toward the New River Gorge Bridge, with water like glass and a cool breeze blowing across the river.

What made the ride even better was having a guide who clearly loved his job and the place he was showing us. He shared the history, pointed things out along the way, and even recommended restaurants. It felt less like someone reciting a tour script and more like spending an afternoon on the river with someone who genuinely wanted us to enjoy it.

We had driven across the New River Gorge Bridge before, and later in this trip we would see it from several completely different angles. Seeing that massive bridge rise above us from the New River was our first real glimpse of just how tall it is.

 

New river gorge bridge arches high above the new river between steep forested hills.The entire experience, from the winding shuttle ride down the mountain to our time on the water and the ride back up, was beautiful. Maybe even a little magical.

If we had to choose our favorite experience of the entire trip, this was it.

If the boat tour is high on your list, I’d check the current schedule and reservation options before your visit, rather than counting on the same last-minute luck we had.

 

 

Best Views
of the New River Gorge Bridge

Of course, we had to see THE bridge. The New River Gorge Bridge opened in 1977 and completely changed the way people traveled through this part of West Virginia.

Before the bridge existed, crossing the gorge meant following the narrow, winding road all the way down to the New River and back up the other side. What had once taken roughly 40 minutes suddenly took less than a minute.

At 3,030 feet long and 876 feet above the New River, the bridge stretches across the gorge in one enormous steel arch. The funny thing is, when you’re driving across it, you really can’t appreciate what you’re driving over, or just how high the bridge itself is.

To really see the New River Gorge Bridge, you need to get out of the car. Over the next few days, we saw it from the overlooks, from the river below, from underneath it on Fayette Station Road, and, of course, from behind the windshield.

Each view was different, and each one gave us a little more appreciation for just how incredible this bridge really is.

Canyon Rim: The Classic Bridge View

We visited Canyon Rim later in the afternoon. From the parking lot, a flat boardwalk leads to the upper overlook, and there it is, the New River Gorge Bridge stretching across the mountains. Driving across this bridge is one thing; standing back and seeing that massive steel arch spanning the gorge is completely different.

The upper overlook gives you a fantastic view without much walking. If you only have time for one view of the New River Gorge Bridge, this is the one I wouldn’t miss.

New river gorge bridge viewed from the top overlook with its steel arch rising above dense green forest.

I wasn’t completely happy with the photos we took that afternoon. The sun was coming from the right side of the bridge, creating a haze across the gorge that really showed up in our pictures. I knew we could do better, so we decided to come back early Tuesday morning before leaving for Michigan.

We returned to Canyon Rim around 8 a.m., and what a difference. The haze was gone, the gorge was clear, and the morning light gave me the bridge photos I had been hoping for.

This time, Robb decided to tackle the 178 steps down to the lower overlook. I should have gone with him, but I felt extra lazy that morning and decided I was perfectly happy at the top. Robb scooted down, took some photos, and came back agreeing that, yes, I had missed a spectacular view.

For us, the upper overlook was the easiest great view, while Robb says the lower overlook was even better.

New river gorge bridge and forested canyon viewed from the wooden lower overlook on a sunny day.

Want to Walk Under the Bridge?

You can.

Our friends Michele and Sean recently did the Bridge Walk and raved about it. Michele admits it was scary, but says it was a complete thrill and highly recommends the experience.

Bridge Walk takes you across a 24-inch-wide maintenance catwalk underneath the New River Gorge Bridge. You’re clipped into a safety system as you cross the 3,030-foot span, about 851 feet above the New River.

Bridge walk pathway running beneath the new river gorge bridge through massive steel support beams.

Photo courtesy of Michele Anderson

And here’s the part that might appeal to anyone looking for ways to experience New River Gorge without a big hike: you don’t have to hike down into the gorge to get this view.

Michelle’s glowing recommendation has not changed our minds, though.

We are still firmly in the “oh hell no” camp.

But if heights are your thing, this is one experience you won’t find at many National Parks.

Our Tip for Canyon Rim:

The upper overlook is an accessible boardwalk and offers a great view of the bridge without tackling the stairs. If you’re up for it, the lower overlook is down 178 steps and was Robb’s favorite bridge view.

If photos matter to you, remember that conditions can look completely different depending on the time of day. Our afternoon visit was hazy, while our 8 a.m. return a few days later gave us much clearer views. If you don’t get the shot you’re hoping for the first time, it may be worth coming back.​

Bridge Day Takes Things to Another Level

For most of us, standing at the overlook and taking in the New River Gorge Bridge is plenty of excitement. Then there are the adventurous souls who look at this 876-foot-high bridge and think, “I wonder what it would be like to jump off that?”

Once a year, during Bridge Day, the bridge closes to regular vehicle traffic and thousands of people come out to walk across it, watch rappellers and see BASE jumpers launch themselves from the bridge.

And seriously, who does that for fun?

Bungee jumping has even been tried from the bridge in the past, because apparently BASE jumping from a bridge 876 feet above the river wasn’t enough.

Bridge Day has become one of West Virginia’s biggest events, drawing tens of thousands of people to the gorge. Even if jumping off a perfectly good bridge isn’t on your bucket list—and it certainly isn’t on mine—it’s one of those events that makes the New River Gorge Bridge unlike almost any other attraction you’ll visit.

I’ll happily watch from a safe distance.

I’m not even sure I want to walk across it on the highway.

 

Sandstone Falls: Our Favorite New River Gorge Waterfall

Sunday morning we got moving a little earlier, around 10 a.m., and headed for Sandstone Falls. It’s roughly a 90-minute drive from the Canyon Rim Visitor Center, so this isn’t necessarily a quick stop to squeeze between other attractions. After seeing it for ourselves, though, I’m really glad we made the drive.

The accessible boardwalk is about a quarter mile and was part of what I loved about this stop. It carries you across small bridges and islands, with the New River flowing around you, and then winds through a section of forest. It felt less like a walkway to a waterfall, and more like the walk itself was part of the experience.

Wooden sandstone falls boardwalk winding through shady forest and large mossy rocks.

Along the way, you start catching glimpses of different sections of the falls through the trees and from the boardwalk. Since Sandstone Falls stretches roughly 1,500 feet across the New River and is broken up by small islands, you aren’t walking toward one single waterfall that suddenly appears in front of you. You get different views as you go.

Then you reach the bigger views, and that’s the payoff. The combination of the boardwalk, bridges, forest, river, and falls made this one of my favorite walks of the entire trip. Sandstone Falls was easily our favorite waterfall.

Wsandstone falls cascading across the wide new river with forested mountains rising in the background.

 

The only reason I would ever suggest skipping Sandstone Falls is time. If you have just one day at New River Gorge, the drive takes you away from several of the other places I’d consider must-sees.

With two or more days, I’d absolutely make the time for it, and I’d turn the drive into part of a full day of exploring. We combined Sandstone Falls with Grandview, then stopped at Dunloup Creek Falls on our way to Thurmond, which made a perfect loop rather than driving all that way just for the falls.

I would have been really bummed if we’d missed this one.

Waterfalls have taken us on some pretty great detours over the years, including our trip through the Finger Lakes, where we found some of our favorite waterfalls in New York.

 

Grandview: Big Reward Without a Big Hike

From Sandstone Falls, we headed to Grandview, another part of the park where you can get an incredible view without committing to a long hike. Ample parking, a small visitor center, picnic shelters, and modern restrooms make this a great place to stop for a while or even pack a lunch.

Several trails surround Grandview if you have more time and want to hike. We chose the simple option and headed straight for the Main Overlook. The walk from the parking area is relatively short, but the stone path is uneven in places, so watch your footing.

Uneven stone walkway leading through a shady wooded area toward the grandview overlook.

Once you reach the overlook, the reward is huge. You’re standing about 1,400 feet above the New River, looking down as it winds through the gorge with mountains stretching out in every direction. It is one of those views that makes you stop for a minute and just take it all in.

Grandview overlook above the new river as it curves around a forested mountain beneath a blue sky.

For the effort it takes to get there, Grandview delivers exactly what we love: a short walk with a WOW factor. And after a morning of exploring, those modern restrooms were a nice bonus, too.

Short walks with big views are kind of our sweet spot in National Parks. We found plenty of those when we explored Acadia National Park, too.

 

Dunloup Creek Falls: Stop Because You’re Going By

On our way toward Thurmond, we stopped at Dunloup Creek Falls. From the road, I could tell the falls were beautiful, although my view through the trees was partially obstructed. To get a better view, you had to make your way down toward the creek.

I took one look at the path and decided I was perfectly happy where I was.

Dunloup creek falls seen through trees with visitors standing on the rocky slope beside the rushing water.

Apparently, not everyone shared my concern. A family with young kids and even a woman about my age shimmied down without a second thought. Robb headed down too, while I stayed above and waited for the pictures.

From Robb’s photos, I could finally see what I’d missed. The falls were flowing and much more powerful than they appeared from my vantage point above. He also confirmed that the route he took was steep and slick, so I had no regrets about sitting this one out.

Dunloup creek falls rushing over layered rock ledges into a shallow pool surrounded by green forest.

I wouldn’t necessarily make a special trip just for Dunloup Creek Falls, especially if you’re not comfortable making your way down for the better view. If you’re already heading toward Thurmond, you’ll pass right by it.

Thurmond, WV:
A Little Town Frozen in Time

I knew Thurmond was a historic railroad town, although I wasn’t prepared for how much of it still feels frozen in time. The railroad tracks run right through the center, lined with historic buildings that give you a glimpse of what this little town must have looked like when the railroad was booming.

Historic thurmond buildings beside active railroad tracks including the brick national bank of thurmond.

Parking near the visitor center allows you to leave the car behind and walk along the tracks and through the historic area.

This is also a fantastic place to take pictures. If you like creating photos that feel like they could have been taken decades ago, you won’t have to work very hard here. Between the railroad tracks, old buildings, and trains still passing through town, there are interesting shots everywhere you look.

Railroad tracks curve through a wooded section of historic thurmond with a small parking area and mountains beyond.

After exploring around the tracks, we drove across them and followed the road up into Thurmond’s residential part. This is where the town became even more fascinating to me. The road is barely wide enough for one car in places, so take your time and watch for anyone coming the other way.

The homes seem to climb straight up the side of the mountain, almost stacked one above another. Some are still occupied, while others are slowly surrendering to time. It reminded me a little of places like Bisbee, Arizona, where the terrain dictated how and where people could build.

Narrow road climbs through dense trees past an old hillside home in residential thurmond. A lamppost banner reads

And trains still come through. Thurmond remains an Amtrak flag stop, which seems almost unbelievable when you’re standing there looking around and imagining how busy this little railroad town once was.

What struck both of us was how well everything was preserved. We didn’t see the graffiti and vandalism we’ve encountered at some other historic sites, so it felt less like exploring abandoned ruins and more like stepping into a piece of West Virginia history.

If you love trains, history, or photography, take time to wander around Thurmond. It doesn’t take a long hike or much effort to explore, yet it ended up being one of the places we talked about most after we left.

Fayette Station Road: Our Favorite New River Gorge Scenic Drive

If you go to Canyon Rim and then leave without driving Fayette Station Road, I think you’re missing part of the bridge story. This eight-mile, one-way road winds down into the gorge, crosses the New River and climbs back up the other side toward Fayetteville.

 

A quick navigation tip

Cell service can be unpredictable when you’re exploring National Parks and other remote areas, so we recommend downloading Google Maps for offline use before you head out.

That’s especially helpful here, since cell reception along Fayette Station Road can be spotty. If you’re planning to drive the road, download the NPS Fayette Station Road audio tour ahead of time, too.

Roads like this are also why we use RV-specific navigation when we’re traveling in the rig instead of relying on Google Maps alone.​

We also recommend checking the official NPS directions and GPS coordinates before heading out, since some park locations aren’t as straightforward as they look on a map.

This was essentially the way across the gorge before the New River Gorge Bridge changed everything in 1977. Suddenly, that 40-minute-versus-less-than-a-minute comparison makes sense because you’re actually driving the old route.

The road is paved and maintained, and we didn’t find the drive difficult. It is narrow and winding in places with several hairpin turns, so take your time and enjoy it. Traffic is one-way, and once you start down into the gorge, you’re committed to following the loop.

Narrow fayette station road curves sharply around a rocky cliff through dense green forest. The winding paved road shows what the scenic drive through new river gorge is actually like.

Before you go, download the Fayette Station Road audio tour from the National Park Service website. It shares the gorge’s history and guides you through the different stops and pullouts along the route. Having the story play as we drove through added so much more context to what we were seeing.

And then there is the bridge.

Fayette Station Road takes you underneath that massive steel arch, giving you a completely different perspective from the overlooks above. By this point, we had driven across the bridge, stood above it at Canyon Rim, and seen it from the New River. Now we were looking up at it from the bottom of the gorge.

New river gorge bridge towers overhead with massive steel supports rising through the surrounding forest. The view from fayette station road reveals the scale and structure hidden beneath the bridge.

Several places pull off along the route, so don’t rush the drive. This was easily our favorite scenic drive in New River Gorge and one I would absolutely do again.

Give us a winding road and great views, and we’re pretty happy. Fayette Station Road reminded us why we love scenic drives like our road trip through Big Sur.

This is also one of those times when having the RV set up at camp and exploring in our tow vehicle really paid off. The National Park Service does not recommend Fayette Station Road for large vehicles, RVs, or trailers, and a low-clearance railroad bridge runs along the route.

If you’re exploring New River Gorge by RV, this is definitely a drive I’d save for your tow vehicle or toad.

Date Night at a Fayetteville Speakeasy

After a full day exploring Sandstone Falls, Grandview, Dunloup Creek Falls, Thurmond, and Fayette Station Road, we headed back to camp to change clothes before going into Fayetteville for the evening.

We had reservations at Rosa’s Speakeasy, and if you’ve followed us for any length of time, you probably already know that finding a good speakeasy for date night when we travel has become kind of our thing.

Rosa’s is tucked inside a historic inn, and from the moment we walked in, I loved the atmosphere. The room is tastefully decorated, intimate, and just dark enough to give it that speakeasy feel without trying too hard. The cocktails got the same attention to detail, and watching them get made was almost as fun as drinking them.

Rosa's speakeasy has an intimate vintage interior with velvet chairs. Antique lamps. A carved fireplace. And walls filled with old framed portraits.

My favorite was The Errand Boy, a nutty, flavorful cocktail with a nice mezcal kick. Rosa’s was exactly the kind of speakeasy we hope to find when we’re exploring a new town.

The errand boy cocktail and a second golden cocktail sit in cut glass tumblers on a marble table beside a menu reading

Rosa’s doesn’t have to be your dinner stop either. They serve charcuterie boards and pie, making it a great stop for cocktails and something to share before dinner or for drinks and dessert afterward. Reservations are required, so this is one evening I would plan ahead rather than just showing up.

After Rosa’s, we continued the agave theme and headed to Tequila & Tacos for dinner. It was casual, predictable comfort food, which was exactly what we wanted after such a full day of exploring.

A great cocktail, a little date night, and then tacos seemed like a pretty good way to end our day in New River Gorge.

Nuttallburg: Inside an Abandoned Coal Town

By the time we made it to Cathedral Cafe for lunch, it was already around 2 p.m. The cafe is inside a restored old church, which alone intrigued me, and the food was pretty good. The service felt a little cold to us that afternoon, so we ate and moved on.

There was one place I really wanted to see before we ran out of daylight: Nuttallburg.

First, You Have to Get There

Nuttallburg had caught my attention while I was researching New River Gorge. We are suckers for ghost towns, abandoned places, and weird and wonderful roadside stops, especially anything that gives us a glimpse into how people lived long before we got there.

The photos of this old coal town and its massive mining structures slowly being reclaimed by the West Virginia forest weren’t enough for me; I knew we had to see it for ourselves.

Getting there was part of the experience.

The narrow road winds farther down the mountain and deeper into the forest, and somewhere along the way the whole place started to feel different to me. The woods grew thicker, the road felt more remote, and then we reached the creek.

Narrow paved road winds through dense forest beside a rocky creek on the drive to nuttallburg. The secluded route gives a sense of the journey required to reach the historic mining site.

This isn’t a quick roadside stop. Give yourself time for the drive down, time to explore and, if you’re anything like me, plenty of daylight to make your way back out.

The rocky creek bed looked almost otherworldly, with huge stones scattered beneath the trees and water working its way through them. The forest was lush and green, but something about that spot gave me a feeling I couldn’t quite explain.

We hadn’t even reached the remains of Nuttallburg yet, and I could already feel the whispers in the woods.

What Remains of a Coal Town

Nuttallburg was once a major coal-mining community, and Henry Ford’s company leased the mines during the 1920s.

One of the most impressive things still standing is the enormous conveyor system that carried coal from the mine high on the mountain down toward the railroad below.

Rust colored coal conveyor stretches high through the forest to the remaining industrial structures at nuttallburg. The massive system shows the scale of the historic coal mining operation hidden in new river gorge.

I had seen pictures of the conveyor before we came, yet they didn’t prepare me for just how long it is. It seems to stretch forever up the side of the mountain, and an incredible amount of it is still standing.

Rust colored nuttallburg coal conveyor climbs steeply up the forested mountainside on tall steel supports. The view from underneath shows the immense scale and incline of the historic mining structure.

We walked around the massive tipple and conveyor system and then made our way down toward the railroad tracks. I was shocked at how well preserved everything was. We didn’t see graffiti or trash scattered everywhere either, which made exploring

Nuttallburg even more interesting. It felt like we were seeing what time had left behind, rather than what people had damaged along the way.

There is a lot of history here beyond the mine itself. Nuttallburg was segregated, with Short Creek separating the community and African American families living on one side and white families on the other.

Standing there among what remains, it was hard not to think about the people who once lived and worked in this isolated place.

Stone piers in the historically african american section of nuttallburg, west virginia

The old coke ovens were another fascinating part of the site. They sit in a long row in the forest, and at least one was open enough to look inside.

We don’t usually stick our heads into dark holes in the woods, and considering the feeling I’d had since we reached the creek, this didn’t seem like a good time to start.

Dark arched opening of a historic coke oven built into a rough stone wall at nuttallburg. Thick plants and vines grow over the crumbling stonework making the old oven look like a dark hole hidden in the woods.

Trails led farther into the old townsite, although they looked a little overgrown during our visit. It was also getting late; we were deep in the forest and, I’ll admit it, by this point I was sufficiently creeped out. I was perfectly happy with how much we had explored.

The strange part was that I hadn’t said anything to Robb about how I’d felt since we came down the mountain.

Walking through Nuttallburg, I couldn’t shake the sense of all the people who had been there before us. Those whispers in the woods were still with me, and I waited until we were safely back up the mountain and closer to civilization before I mentioned them to him.

Even with, or maybe partly because of, that feeling, I loved Nuttallburg. It was eerie, fascinating, and so well preserved that it became one of the places from this trip I know I won’t forget.

 

Babcock State Park: Glade Creek Grist Mill and Almost Heaven

Our last stop on Monday was Babcock State Park, and this was one we both really wanted to make happen.

Robb wanted to photograph the Glade Creek Grist Mill, one of the most photographed places in West Virginia, and I wanted my picture on an Almost Heaven swing.

As luck would have it, we could get both pictures in the same place. The Almost Heaven swing at Babcock overlooks the gristmill and is just a short walk from the main parking area, so neither of us had to negotiate much for our photo stop.

Maureen leans over robb as they pose together on the wooden almost heaven swing at babcock state park. Glade creek grist mill and its red waterwheel appear behind them beside the rocky creek.

After spending some time around the gristmill and taking plenty of pictures, we checked out some of the trails in the area. Several of the shorter trails are rated “easy” and looked like exactly the kind of hiking we enjoy, a manageable walk with something to see along the way. By this point in the day, though, we weren’t up for uphill hiking.

Glade creek grist mill stands beside a rocky creek surrounded by dense green forest at babcock state park. The weathered wooden mill and large red waterwheel sit above the flowing water and exposed rocks.

Before leaving, we drove through the campground to see what we thought. Of course, that gave us another reason to come back.

Babcock is now on our list of places we’d like to bring the RV, giving us time to try a few of those shorter trails, explore more of the park, and enjoy it without watching the clock.

In the end, we both got exactly what we came for. Robb got his gristmill shots, I got my Almost Heaven picture, and we left with another place added to the return list.

How Many Days Do You Need at New River Gorge?

If you’re trying to decide how much you can realistically fit into your visit, here’s how I’d break it down based on our experience.

One Day at New River Gorge

Stick with Canyon Rim, Fayette Station Road, Grandview, and Thurmond. You’ll get the classic bridge view, drive down into the gorge, see one of our favorite overlooks, and get a little West Virginia railroad history without spending your entire day in the car.

Two Days at New River Gorge

Add Sandstone Falls and Hawks Nest State Park. Sandstone takes you farther from the Canyon Rim area, so a second day makes the drive much easier to justify. And if the Hawks Nest boat tour is running, I’d make time for it, it was our favorite experience of the trip.

Three or More Days at New River Gorge

Add Nuttallburg and Babcock State Park, and slow everything down. You’ll have time for some of the shorter trails, another waterfall or two, and maybe even an afternoon where you’re not looking at the clock.

We had four nights, but because we were working during the trip, we didn’t have four full sightseeing days. If I were planning this strictly as a vacation, I’d want at least three full days.

Planning Your Own New River Gorge Road Trip?

Once you start deciding how many days you need and which stops make sense together, it helps to get everything out of your head and onto paper.

Our free Road-Ready Starter Kit walks you through building your road trip itinerary in about an hour, with trip-planning worksheets, daily itinerary templates, a quick budget planner, packing lists and the tools we use when planning our own trips.

 👉 Get the free Road Ready Starter Kit​

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What We’d Do Differently Next Time

Four nights sounds like plenty of time to explore New River Gorge. It wasn’t. Next time, I’d give ourselves four or five full days so we could slow down a little and add some of the things we missed.

At the top of that list is the New River Gorge Waterfall Tour. The National Park Service route has eight waterfalls: four accessible from the road and four requiring some hiking. That sounds like a pretty good excuse to come back and do a little more of that “hiking” we keep talking about.

I’d also consider staying at Babcock State Park, especially if our grandson Mason were traveling with us. He could fish, we’d have more time to explore those shorter trails, and Robb would probably find another hundred things to photograph. I’d also make time for dinner at The Gaines Estate while we’re in the area.

Then there is the underground coal mine tour in Beckley that we didn’t get to this time. I’ll let Robb handle that one because you know my thoughts about caves. I can find something perfectly enjoyable to do above ground while he’s down there exploring.

That’s the beauty of places like New River Gorge. Every time we cross something off the list, we seem to add two more things we want to come back and see. There’s always another road to explore.

Our Favorites From New River Gorge

Best overall experience: Hawks Nest boat tour. The shuttle ride, Captain Ron, the calm river, and approaching the bridge from the water made it feel almost magical.

Best view: The lower Canyon Rim overlook after those 178 steps.

Biggest surprise: How intact and well-preserved Thurmond and Nuttallburg felt.

Best waterfall: Sandstone Falls.

Best scenic drive: Fayette Station Road.

Best photo stop: Babcock State Park’s Glade Creek Grist Mill and Almost Heaven Swing.

Most eerie and interesting: Nuttallburg. Whispers in the woods.

Best cocktail: The Errand Boy at Rosa’s.

Wouldn’t miss: New River Gorge Bridge from Canyon Rim. Go in the morning if photographs are important to you.

Fine to skip if you’re short on time: Sandstone Falls and Nuttallburg. We loved both, but they take time to reach.

What we’d change: Stay longer and chase more waterfalls.

Planning a New River Gorge Trip: Frequently Asked Questions

Is there an entrance fee for New River Gorge National Park

No. New River Gorge National Park and Preserve does not charge an entrance fee, and you don’t need an entrance pass to visit or to park.

Can you visit New River Gorge without hiking?

Yes. You can experience many of the best parts of New River Gorge National Park without taking a long hike. Scenic overlooks, waterfalls, historic towns and scenic drives gave us plenty to explore with only short walks along the way.

What can you see at New River Gorge without hiking?

Some of our favorite easy-access stops included the New River Gorge Bridge from Canyon Rim, Fayette Station Road, Grandview, Cathedral Falls, Sandstone Falls and the historic railroad town of Thurmond. Many require only a short walk, boardwalk or walk from the parking area rather than a traditional hike.

What is the easiest New River Gorge Bridge overlook?

The upper overlook at Canyon Rim is the easiest way we found to get the classic New River Gorge Bridge view. A boardwalk leads from the parking area to the overlook, and you don’t need to tackle the 178 steps to the lower overlook unless you want another perspective.

How many days do you need at New River Gorge?

I’d plan at least two full days for New River Gorge, although three gives you more time to explore without rushing. With one day, I’d concentrate on Canyon Rim, Fayette Station Road, Grandview, and Thurmond; with additional days, add places like Sandstone Falls, Hawks Nest State Park, Nuttallburg, and Babcock State Park.

Can you drive through New River Gorge National Park?

Yes, and scenic driving is one of the best ways to experience New River Gorge. Fayette Station Road was our favorite drive, taking us down into the gorge, underneath the New River Gorge Bridge and back up the other side along the route travelers used before the bridge opened.

Can you drive an RV on Fayette Station Road?

Fayette Station Road is not recommended for RVs, trailers, or large vehicles. The road is narrow and winding with several hairpin turns and a low-clearance railroad bridge, so we left our RV at the campground and explored in our tow vehicle.

Is Sandstone Falls worth the drive?

Yes, especially if you have two or more days at New River Gorge. The accessible boardwalk is about a quarter mile and takes you through the forest and across small bridges and islands for several different views of the falls. We loved Sandstone Falls, but if you only have one day, the drive takes you away from several other must-see places.

Twenty Years Later

It had been about 20 years since I drove across the New River Gorge Bridge. Back then, West Virginia was somewhere Robb and I traveled for work. We pulled into fairgrounds, our mobile RC racing business, Fast Action Motorsports Entertainment, worked, packed everything up, and moved on to the next county.

We knew “The WV.” Or at least I thought we did.

This time, we stopped. We saw the bridge from the rim, floated toward it from the New River, and drove underneath it on the winding road people used before the bridge existed. Robb even climbed down those 178 steps at Canyon Rim to see it from one more angle.

Over four nights, we wandered through old railroad and coal towns, stood beside waterfalls, drove mountain roads and drank a little tequila along the way. We found places that gave us whispers in the woods, places that made us want to stay longer and plenty of reasons to come back.

On our final morning, before pulling out for Michigan, we drove back to Canyon Rim one more time. The light was better, the haze was gone, and we finally got the bridge pictures I had been hoping for.

Maureen and robb smile together at a stone overlook above new river gorge. The forested gorge and new river stretch into the distance behind them.

After all these years of driving through West Virginia, I think we finally stopped long enough to really see it. And once again, “The WV” gave us another road to come back and explore.

If road trips, RV travel, and finding places like this are your kind of adventure, come along with us. Join our weekly newsletter for more of the places we’re exploring, the things we learn along the way and plenty of ideas for your own travels.

And before you hit the road, grab a free copy of our Road-Ready Trip Kit. It’s packed with practical tools to help you plan, organize, and get ready for your next road trip.

Travel Safe and Adventure Often.

Maureen Wright and Robb Strobridge

The Stromads

The stromads at a speakeasy for date night.

Entrepreneurs, Wanderlusters, Constant travelers, and Full-time RV Nomads since 2016.  We are fueled by life, love, and the pursuit of all things good.  Thanks for joining our journey and we hope to see you down the road!

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ROBB AND MAUREEN

THE STROMADS

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